High Tides and Redeye Rides

(2022 Newfoundland Ep 5)

After two and a half weeks and 2425 miles, we arrived in Canada, crossing the border between Calais, Maine and Saint Stephen, New Brunswick.  The crossing was uneventful.  We used ArriveCAN, a database and phone app, where we uploaded our passport and Covid immunization information. Should you have plans to visit our neighbor to the north, we suggest completing the ArriveCAN information to avoid delays or other issues.

Our first night in Canada was near Saint Stephen and the next day we continued to Fundy National Park. 

Fundy NP is situated on the Bay of Fundy, between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia provinces, and is home of the highest tides in the world. 

Fundy beach wanderers at low tide

From a grassy bluff above Herring Cove Beach, we descended more than 150 stairs and found ourselves alone on a quiet and serene beach.  It was low tide and the edge of the water was more than 200 yards away.  Above the beach were the natural rock walls of the bluff and we could see where the tide would rise on the rocks over 50 foot above! 

Pointing to the high tide line far above
Some areas between the low and high tide lines consisted of thick muck!

The tide started to come in. Rocks and mucky areas visible just a few minutes earlier were soon under water.

Twice each day an estimated 100 billion tons of water flow in and out of the bay – more than twice the combined total flow of the world’s rivers over the same period.  The tides rise and fall an astounding 52 feet!

Leaving the beach, we climbed the stairs to hike the Matthew’s Head Trail.  The trail follows the bluff above the bay for more than a mile.  We enjoyed our lunch and a beautiful view.  Not wanting to repeat an unfortunate hiking experience at Grand Teton a couple of years ago when I tripped and dislocated a finger, we had to proceed slowly and carefully due to many exposed tree roots and rocks on the trail.  We are thankful we completed the trail with no mishaps!

After our hike we drove to Alma, a small town just outside the park, to look around.  We noticed several colorful fishing boats propped up above the water far below. 

We returned to the beach at high tide and stood at the high tide line again. It was amazing how different the beach looked.  Back in Alma, the once propped boats where now floating on a wide tidal creek. 

The next day we visited unusual rock formations at the nearby Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park.  The rocks were formed by the rising and falling tides, and reminded us of Bryce Canyon and Arches National Parks. There were tall ‘hoodoos’ nearly a 100 feet high. 

Hopewell Rocks

We were surprised to see dozens of people lined up to buy tickets to see the rocks – the park is very popular.

We picked and enjoyed wild blueberries with Greek yogurt

We camped the next two nights at the Earltown, Nova Scotia farm residence of Andrew and Patty Morrow.  They invited us for an amazing breakfast, and we later walked their property and then a short distance into town.  We couldn’t resist purchasing a loaf of fresh cranberry-blueberry-raisin bread at the Earltown General Store. 

Andrew, a native Newfoundlander, shared Newfoundland travel suggestions and coached us on the correct pronunciation of his home province – he said Newfoundland rhymes with understand!. 

We continued north to North Sydney, Nova Scotia and prepared to board a Marine Atlantic ferry for a seven hour ‘cruise’ to Port aux Basque, Newfoundland.   We had a few hours to spare before our 11:45 pm ‘red eye’ ferry departure, so we took time to do what all travelers must do from time to time – laundry!

Early morning arrival at Port aux Basques, Newfoundland

Next week – we arrive on Newfoundland and spend a couple of nights at a campsite overlooking the Codroy Valley.  We continue on to Gros Morne National Park where bad roads threaten to change our plans!

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